Sewing Machine Needles and Other Pointy Bits

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See the bottom of the page for needles and needleclamps and threaders for sale...

In order to get the thread through the fabric (and back again) you need a needle. Ideally you need more than one, but I'll come to that.
Most old and modern machines you are likely to encounter take System 705, or 15 x 1 needles.
I DON'T STOCK THESE - YOU CAN BUY THEM ANYWHERE
(Choose a good named brand, not Chinese, preferably made in Europe, and the Right Size. I like Schmetz, Organ; don't buy cheap unbranded ones)
This type has a flat side on the shank (the bit at the top of the needle) and two grooves - one almost all the way up on the rounded side, and a shorter one on the other (flat) side.. Jones CS machine take a Round Shank needle (I stock these - £4 for 5)
Other old machines may take an odd or difficult-to-find needle. My first advice on these is to be sure you can replace the needle you are using before you run out - always keep one for a pattern. I have some odd sizes (for Singer 12, Singer 29k, and others) but they are mostly no longer made. It's no good expecting to sew forever on your last needle....) WHEN IT IS GONE THE MACHINE MAY BE UNUSABLE FOREVER...

With me so far? Good...

When the thread comes off the reel at the top of the machine, it is carried by the needle under the plate and is offered to the Hook (or the point of the Shuttle), which makes the stitch by carrying the thread around the bobbin. The thread is then raised towards the top by the Take-up Lever and the Take-up Spring so that the loop needed to make the journey is neatly removed, and the stitch is made. (None of this quite applies to Chain Stitch machines - if you have one of those then the easy way to find out how the thread works is to look...)

Now, in order to make a neat stitch and keep the thread in good condition (the top thread will travel many times around the hook before it comes to rest in a stitch) the size of thread and needle should match. The needle needs to hold the thread in the long groove while it travels down, then release the thread as it comes up again. If the thread is too fat it will stick and fray, if too thin it will make untidy loops. So, look at your thread size first. Jeans need a fat thread (30) and a fatter needle (14/90 or 16/100). Dress-weight cotton, patchwork fabrics etc. need a thinner thread (40 or 50) and a thinner needle (12/80 or 11/80) (yes, I know...)
Fine silk needs a finer thread still (60) and a thinner needle (9/70)
Now, those of you with an observant turn of mind will have noticed that needles get fatter as the number gets larger, but thread gets thinner as the numbers rise.

Just one of those things.

(Actually, I know why, but it's good for your googling skills to research such things...)*

Needles Do Not Last Forever...

...and should be changed after each large or medium project; if bent or catching; if the wrong size for the work; or if you are having problems with the stitch. Changing needles should be as common as changing underwear, and about as frequent (after 8 hours of use...)

PLEASE DO NOT PUT THE OLD ONES BACK IN THE PACKET

You won't be able to tell which they are and they do not "heal" if allowed to rest. I recently evicted 47 needles from a student's machine. Some were broken, all were blunt, and several had noticeable bends in them...Not Good

(The one on the left I made myself, with a Bernina 730, a moment's inattention, and an extra-special curse word. Don't try this at home...)

So, In Conclusion

Change your needles, look after your needles, and your machine will sew ever so much better...
I have tried to answer the commonest problems and questions I get, but if you need more information, please Email Me

* Here's a good link

Needles


NE001 Jones CS Round-shank needles; £4 for 5: postage £1:
Sizes 12, 14 or 16, or mixed packs
Buy 3 packs and get free postage

Jones Needles

NE002 Schmetz Industrial 135 by 5 (fit lots of machines including Gamill); £5 for 10: 1 pack of size 14, 9 packs of size 16

From top:-
NE006 128 TLS-044
NE008 128 GBS-004 (ball point)
NE007 128 TAS-044
All £3 for 5 or £8.50 for 25
I also have small numbers of needles for Singer 12 and 13 class machines, 29k bootpatcher, and others. Only one or two of some of these... From £2 each.
If you have a very unusual needle please measure it precisely (or send one) and I'll try to match it.
I can get all the various sorts of industrial needles but you should try online or locally first...

Needle Clamps

He-who-is-not-named put a lot of these in the tin without labels..where I name a machine, I am sure, though...

From top:-
NC001 FR Cub 4; £5
NC002 Vesta TS; £5
NC003 Singer 99k; £5
NC004 German FR clone; £7
NC005 Jones 692; £5
NC006 Singer 478; £5
NC007 Italian Singer; £5
NC008 Pinnock; £5
NC009 Hamfa; £5

From top:-
NC011 Arrow; £5
NC012 Vesta; £7
NC013 Singer 185k; £5
NC014 Singer shuttle machines with thread guide; £5; (NC015 without £4.50)
NC016 Toyota; £5
NC017 Singer 237; £5
NC018 Cresta; £5
NC019 Small Vesta TS (with needle); £7.50
NC020 Jones CS (just the key, that's all you need); £3.50

From top:-
NC021 Frister and Rossman VS; £6
NC022 Harris 15 clone; £5
NC023 Singer 201k with thread guides; £6
NC024 Jones 942; £5
NC025 Toyota; £5
NC026 Regina TS (with needle); £7.50
NC027 Harris OS (with guide); £6NC029; £5
NC030 (very small shaft); £5

From top:-
NC031 Simanco 17356; £5
NC032; £5
NC033; £5
NC034 from U/I green machine; £5
NC035 old; £5
NC036; £5
NC037; £5
NC038; £5
NC039 old; £5
NC040; £5

NC041 Singer; £4.50

NC043; £5

Threaders and Cutters


NC042 Assorted Thread Cutters. I don't like these, and take them off machines all the time. One free if requested with any needleclamp, or 50p otherwise..

M024 Witch hand needle threader; £2.50

M002 Auto hand needle threader; £2.50

M003 Machine needle threader; £2.50

M004 Singer hand or machine needle threader, with repro instructions; £3.50

M010 Singer hand or machine needle threader;with repro instructions; £5

M020 Green machine needle threader with instructions; £4

M029 Assorted hand or machine needle threaders 50p each
My address is:-
4, The Raveningham Centre, Beccles Road, Raveningham, Norfolk, NR14 6NU. United Kingdom
01508 548137